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Most gardens will attract some bees and pollinators naturally throughout the year, but employing one or more of these pollinator friendly techniques will help optimise your garden. One of the best strategies for gardeners wanting to support pollinating insects is not only to provide nectar and pollen-rich flowers throughout the year, but to plant a good mix of plants both native and non native to the UK.  This ensures that in the British growing season your pollinators have access to plants native to the UK and the northern hemisphere (which are often best adapted to your local pollinators and provide the most benefits) but also that later in the year your exotic plants will extend the season and provide nectar and pollen up to the first frosts of the year.   Cutting the Grass Less Often Allowing some or all of your grass lawn to grow slightly longer and allowing ‘‘weeds’ to flower to create a wildflower helps create even more areas for bees and other pollinators within your garden. Providing Water Allowing access to water within your garden is an important part of supporting wildlife and bees in your garden. You can purchase purpose build bee waterers, or you can reate your own by taking any shallow dish, fill almost to the top with pebbles or glass marbles, and filling with water. Make sure to place your water source near flowers and in a sheltered area, and to regularly replace or replenish the water.  Avoid using pesticides wherever possible and never spray open flowers  Provide nest sites for wild bees Providing nesting sites for bees, especially solitary bees and bumblebees, is often crucial for their survival and their ability to pollinate. Offer a variety of nesting materials and locations in your garden, like undisturbed ground, dead stems, brush piles, and purpose-built bee hotels and, If possible, avoid using any and all pesticides within your garden. Planting a Good Mix The best strategy for gardeners wanting to support pollinating insects in gardens is to plant a mix of flowering plants from different parts of the world, aiming to have more plants that are native to Britain and the northern hemisphere (often best adapted to local pollinators and provide the most benefits) than the southern hemisphere. Exotic plants can be used to extend the season (especially late summer flowering) and provide nectar and pollen for some specific pollinators. Many gardeners in the UK already adopt this approach since native and northern hemisphere plants are usually very reliable in a British climate and a smattering of more exotic plants helps provide flowers up to the first frosts and often introduces unusual flowers colours and shapes. Plant in Clumps Grouping your plants together makes it easier for pollinators to find them and move from one plant to the next. Getting stung by bees in your garden is unlikely, as long as you treat bees with respect. All female bees have stings, but solitary bees are not at all aggressive and only use their stings in self-defence if roughly handled. Similarly bumblebees and honeybees are unlikely to sting while they are going about their business of collecting nectar and pollen if they are left alone. Avoid disturbing bumblebee nests or standing close to a bee hive.

As we approach the end of the year, theres still plenty to be done in the garden. See our guide to autumn and winter maintenance in the garden. From September to November when the soil is dry enough, divide summer-flowering plants. If we end up with a very wet Autumn, or for more tender plants, delay until spring.  Divide & Take Cuttings To divide, lift plants gently with a garden fork, working outwards from the crown’s centre to limit root damage. Shake off excess soil so that roots are clearly visible Some plants produce individual plantlets which can simply be teased out and replanted, but for some small, fibrous-rooted plants such as lift and pull apart gently. For larger, more fibrous-rooted perennials, you may need to insert two garden forks back-to-back, pull apart and break into two smaller sections. In some cases, a sharp knife, axe or lawn edging iron may be needed to cleave the clump in two Plants with woody crowns (e.g. Helleborus) or fleshy roots (Delphinium) require cutting with a spade or knife. Aim to produce clumps containing three to five healthy shoots Take cuttings from fuchsias, salvias and pelargoniums, evergreen shrubs like boxwood, hebe, and camellia, and hardwood cuttings from deciduous plants such as roses, forsythia, and dogwoods. Keep summer bedding flowering in hanging baskets and pots until the first frosts by deadheading and feeding regularly Harvest On a dry day, harvest your raspberries, which should continue fruiting until the first frosts, which you can eat fresh as is, or make into jams or include in baking!  Preparing for Winter As we come into September, keep your eye on the weather for early frosts and be ready to bring tender potted plants under cover - herbs like chives and parsley can be placed on a sunny windowsill and used in cooking during winter.      November Jobs in the garden  As we approach winter, there are a couple of key points of maintenance to keep your garden up to speed. Pond Maintenance If you are lucky enough to have a pond in the garden, make sure to take action if it contains fish, as oxygen levels can drop if the surface freezes over. You can melt a portion of the ice by placing a hot pan on the surface, or floating a ball on a pond in cold weather can also delay freezing. Refrain from smashing the ice as the shock waves can harm fish. Keeping some of the pond ice-free also gives wildlife access to fresh drinking water. Raise Containers onto Pot Feet to Prevent Waterlogging The main danger during the colder weather is the compost freezing, which can kill your plants. In very wet weather, make sure that your potted plants are raised to keep the bottom of the pot out of standing water, or brought somewhere sheltered.  Protect your pots from hard frosts with a biodegradable fleece or mulch. Watering Though watering may still be necessary for your conifers and evergreens (especially if they are covered from the rain) your deciduous or other dormant plants will most likely need little to no watering. Always make sure to avoid watering all together if frost is forecast, and you will not need to feed your plants during the winter months

Creating a Water Conscious Garden Water Conscious Gardening is a sustainable landscaping and gardening approach that promotes water conservation without compromising the health and beauty of the garden.  Though it may sound complicated, the key principles of water-wise gardening are simple and easy for most gardeners to implement, either partially or in full, like selecting drought-tolerant plants, using techniques like mulching to retain soil moisture, and capturing and using rainwater to water and irrigate your garden. By deciding to dedicate your garden to water conservation,  you can create an optimised landscape which not only looks great, but also reduces water consumption and wastage, while supporting local biodiversity and a greener, more sustainable environment. Water-wise gardening involves several essential practices that conserve water and promote a sustainable garden: First, make sure to select appropriate, drought tolerant plants that are adapted to dryer conditions. This will reduce overall water consumption significantly. For example, if you desire a lawn, consider replacing traditional turf with a drought-resistant alternative grass or a ground cover like clover or sedum. Making sure you regularly mulch your plants with organic materials like wood chips, compost or organic matter helps your soil retain moisture, prevents weeds, and will protect your plants from temperature fluctuations. There are a couple of watering techniques which help to conservative water. Watering your drought tolerant plants deeply and infrequently encourages deep root growth, which will enable your plants to access water from lower soil layers during dry periods, and watering your garden during the early morning or late evening when temperatures are lower will reduce water loss through evaporation. Opt for permeable materials in your garden, such as gravel or permeable pavers, for paths and driveways. This allows rainwater to infiltrate the soil rather than running off into drains. Many water conscious gardeners go on to install their own rain barrels to collect and store rainwater from rooftops, which you can then store for dry periods. Many drought tolerant plants can be identified by their silver or grey-ish leaves, which helps them reflect the harsh rays of the sun, and a coating of fine hairs on their leaves or stems, helping to trap moisture.  

Matcha making is an art form with a very long history. Originating in Japan during the Muromachi period in the 16th century, tea farmers developed the shade-grown cultivated technique that is now essential to the process that defines matcha and distinguishes it from other teas. With a bit of effort, you too can make your own matcha tea! See our guide to producing the delicate, fine matcha powder that we all know and love!   What You’ll Need Your Camellia Sinensis plant A steamer Paper towels A baking sheet Oven A mortar and pestle or grinder A fine-mesh sieve Harvest For the best matcha from your plant, you’ll want to pick some of the freshest, youngest tender leaves at the top of the branches on your Camellia Sinensis plant. These will typically be two leaves and a bud - a mix of tender buds and larger mature leaves is a good place to start.   Steam Your leaves should be immediately steamed after picking for a short time to prevent oxidation. This preserves their vibrant green colour and enhances their antioxidant properties! This technique is fundamental to the uniqueness of Japanese green tea and makes matcha matcha! Cool Next, your leaves should be cooled - line a baking sheet with paper towels and spread the leaves out to dry for a minimum of 10 minutes. While your leaves are cooling, preheat your oven to 80°. Dry Place the leaves in your preheated oven for 5-10 minutes, keeping a close eye on them to make sure they don’t start to brown. This allows them to dry gradually without roasting. Remove Veins and Crush Leaf Now the leaves and stems need to be gently removed, leaving behind the soft leaf tissue. Crush up the rest of the leaves until they resemble dried herbs. Your leaves are now what is referred to as ‘tencha’ DID YOU KNOW? Traditionally, the tea plants will have been covered and shaded 6 weeks before harvest. The characteristic bright green colour is due to the increased chloroplasts that the plants produce to collect more light in the shade Grind Leaf into Powder Traditionally, large granite stone mills are what are used to create the very fine matcha powder we know, but a coffee grinder or mortal and pestle can also get the job done. The result won't be as fine as ceremonial-grade matcha, but it will still be quite good. Slowly grind your tencha into as fine a powder as you can Sift Powder Using your fine-mesh sieve, sift your ground tea to eliminate any larger particles. You now have matcha! Get Your Own Camellia Sinensis Tea Plant! Camellia Sinensis Tea breeze is the trending plant used to make green, black, oolong and matcha teas. Simply harvest the young leaves, dry or steam them, and enjoy freshly brewed tea made from your own garden. Shop Camellia Tea Plants

Avoid last-minute stress, secure the perfect tree, and enjoy a magical start to the festive season. It’s mid-December, and you’re finally ready to buy your Christmas tree. You log onto your favourite website only to find the 6ft Nordmann Fir you wanted? Sold out. The 5ft Fraser Fir? Gone. Delivery slots? Nothing available until after Christmas. You’re left scrolling through whatever’s left—tiny 2-footers or massive 9-footers that won’t fit through your door. You settle for a tree you don’t really want, pay more than you budgeted, and watch it drop needles before Boxing Day even arrives. TOP TIP: Pre-ordering your Christmas tree removes the stress and guarantees freshness, value, and perfect timing for delivery. At Carbeth Plants, Christmas tree pre-orders are now open — with deliveries starting 17th November. Order today, choose your delivery week, and skip the December disappointment entirely. 🎄 Key Takeaways Secure premium varieties early – Nordmann Fir and Fraser Fir sell out weeks before December. Choose your delivery slot – Reserve before couriers hit peak capacity. Get a fresher tree – Delivered directly from growers. Plan stress-free – No last-minute panic, no inflated prices. The UK Christmas Tree Market Has Changed The UK Christmas tree market isn't what it used to be. Labour shortages, transport cost increases of 20–60%, and doubled fertiliser prices mean higher costs across the board. Supply issues hit hard in 2024 — wet weather caused fungal diseases, and premium trees became scarce. The British Christmas Tree Growers Association reports 6–8 million trees sold annually in the UK, but demand always exceeds supply for popular sizes. Premium Varieties Sell Out Weeks Before Christmas From the UK’s favourite Nordmann Fir to the fragrant Fraser Fir, demand always outpaces supply. Here’s what makes each special: Nordmann Fir Soft, non-prickly needles Excellent needle retention Perfect symmetrical shape Fraser Fir Classic balsam scent Compact, dense form Limited UK-grown supply Other options: Blue Spruce (stunning colour), Noble Fir (elegant silver-blue needles), and Norway Spruce (budget-friendly classic). All face shortages by December. Delivery Slots Disappear Faster Than Trees Courier demand peaks early December. Pre-ordering lets you choose the week that suits you. Deliveries at Carbeth Plants start from 17th November. TOP TIP: Book early—by December, most weekend delivery slots are gone. Pre-Ordered Trees Arrive Fresher Pot-grown trees from Carbeth Plants come directly from UK nurseries with roots intact. They're not left drying in garden centres for weeks—so they last longer and stay vibrant. When to Bring Your Tree Indoors Pot-grown trees should only stay indoors 1–2 weeks. Keep them outdoors until mid-December and move them gradually into warmth to prevent stress. 🎅 Pre-Order Now and Beat the December Rush! Choose from Nordmann Fir, Fraser Fir, Blue Spruce, Noble Fir, and more. Deliveries begin 17th November. Shop Christmas Trees Frequently Asked Questions Why pre-order instead of waiting? Because popular sizes sell out, prices rise, and delivery slots vanish. Pre-ordering guarantees all three stay in your favour. When can I order? Right now! Deliveries start from 17th November—choose your preferred week at checkout. How long do pot-grown trees last? With good care, pot-grown trees can be reused for up to 3–4 Christmases. Just keep them outdoors most of the year.

Few people bring the depth of knowledge and instinct for plants that Dougie Cumming does. With more than 40 years of experience, his journey began in landscaping, where he learnt first-hand the importance of plants that not only look beautiful but also stand the test of time. That grounding in practical garden design continues to influence his work today as Plant Purchase Manager at Carbeth Plants. Dougie’s role is rooted in curiosity and careful selection. Every season, he handpicks plants that will delight customers, whether it’s a statement shrub, a classic perennial, or something a little unusual. His landscaping background gives him a unique perspective—he doesn’t just look at a plant as a product but imagines how it will grow, change, and bring life to someone’s garden for years to come. What sets Dougie apart is his quiet dedication. He doesn’t seek the spotlight, but his fingerprints are all over Carbeth Plants’ collection. Thanks to his expertise and instinct, customers can trust that the plants they take home are not just healthy but thoughtfully chosen with care and decades of experience behind them.

With more than 30 years of experience in horticulture, Pedro Romero has grown into his role as Horticulturist at Carbeth Plants through a lifelong passion for helping people choose the right plants for their spaces. His background in sales has shaped not only his career but also his approach to customer care, where clarity, honesty, and trust come first. Pedro’s journey into the world of plants wasn’t planned—it unfolded naturally. Early in his career, he discovered how rewarding it was to guide people through choices that would shape their homes and gardens. Over the decades, this grew into a deep commitment to making quality plants accessible to everyone, whether they’re seasoned gardeners or just starting out. At Carbeth Plants, Pedro combines his practical experience with an eye for detail, ensuring that every plant offered is something he would happily take home himself. He’s particularly passionate about creating a shopping experience that feels personal, where customers feel supported and confident in their choices. For Pedro, the joy of horticulture lies not only in the plants themselves but in the stories they create in gardens across the UK.

Looking for a plant to match an exact wedding anniversary? Whether it’s a first, tenth or fiftieth anniversary (congratulations!), this guide lists the traditional milestone years and pairs each one with a great flowering plant gift.  Which plant matches each wedding anniversary? Below you'll find each anniversary year with a specific plan. Most pairings are rose bushes with different colours and varieties carefully chosen to suit each milestone. You’ll also see a few camellias and other shrubs that work beautifully for bigger anniversaries. 1st Anniversary – Paper Soft, simple, symbolic. A pretty white rose bush to mark the Paper Anniversary.  Rose bush for 1st (Paper) anniversary. 2nd Anniversary – Cotton A stunning white rose bush that perfectly suits the simplicity of the Cotton Anniversary. Rose bush for the 2nd (Cotton) anniversary 3rd Anniversary – Leather Mark three years with a deep red rose bush - bold and romantic. Rose bush for the 3rd (Leather) anniversary   4th Anniversary – Linen This crisp white rose bush is the perfect plant for the Linen Anniversary.  Rose bush for the 4th (Linen) anniversary 5th Anniversary – Wood A bright yellow rose bush with strong roots - perfect for the Wood Anniversary. Rose bush for the 5th (Wood) anniversary 6th Anniversary – Iron Hardy and long-lasting (like six years together!). A classic, strong-growing red rose bush. Rose bush for the 6th (Iron) anniversary   7th Anniversary – Wool A snowy-toned rose bush that makes a brilliant gift for the Wool Anniversary. Rose bush for the 7th (Wool) anniversary 8th Anniversary – Bronze Bright yellow blooms for the Bronze Anniversary. Bright and easygoing for eight years in.  Rose bush for the 8th (Bronze) anniversary Why are so many anniversary plant gifts roses? Roses have long been linked to love. Their variety of colours and characters makes them perfect for marking specific anniversary milestones. As plants, rose bushes are easy to grow, suited to UK gardens, and designed to last. Each rose bush arrives from us beautifully wrapped and ready to plant - a lovely anniversary gift that feels considered, not generic. 9th Anniversary – Pottery A rich pink rose bush for the Pottery Anniversary. Looks stunning in full bloom. Rose bush for the 9th (Pottery) anniversary   10th Anniversary – Tin Ten years! This classic rose bush is long-lasting and easy to love. Rose bush for the 10th (Tin) anniversary 11th Anniversary – Steel Steel marks strength and resilience - and this rose bush is both. Reliable, hardy, and easy to look after. Rose bush for the 11th (Steel) anniversary 12th Anniversary – Silk A soft-petalled rose bush that looks delicate, but grows strong. Fantastic for the Silk Anniversary. Rose bush for the 12th (Silk) anniversary     13th Anniversary – Lace Fine white petals with a light scent - a very elegant rose bush that fits the detail of lace. Rose bush for the 13th (Lace) anniversary 14th Anniversary – Ivory Clean, classic, and easy to care for. A great plant gift for the Ivory Anniversary. Rose bush for the 14th (Ivory) anniversary 15th Anniversary – Crystal Neat, bright - this rose bush is our favourite choice for the Crystal anniversary. Rose bush for the 15th (Crystal) anniversary   20th Anniversary – China A deep rose bush for 20 years together. Watch it bloom together, year after year.  Rose bush for the 20th (China) anniversary 25th Anniversary – Silver Blush-toned rose or camellia - both are easy to grow and make a wonderful Silver Anniversary gift. Rose bush for the 25th (Silver) anniversary Camellia plant for the 25th (Silver) anniversary 30th Anniversary – Pearl Soft white blooms that feel timeless for thirty years together. Rose bush for the 30th (Pearl) anniversary Camellia nuccio plant for the 30th (Pearl) anniversary   35th Anniversary – Coral A lovely rose bush with pink blooms. Strong and reliable. Easy to care for. Rose bush for the 35th (Coral) anniversary 40th Anniversary – Ruby Plenty of gorgeous ruby red options here - choose from camellia, rose, or leucothoe: Leucothoe curly for the 40th (Ruby) anniversary Camellia plant for the 40th (Ruby) anniversary Rose bush for the 40th (Ruby) anniversary 45th Anniversary – Sapphire For the Sapphire Anniversary, celebrate with a vibrant rose bush that grows well and looks striking.  Rose bush for the 45th (Sapphire) anniversary 50th Anniversary – Golden Fifty years deserves something lasting. Choose a golden-hued rose or camellia that’s full of life. Rose bush for the 50th (Golden) anniversary Camellia plant for the 50th (Golden) anniversary 55th Anniversary – Emerald 55 years and still blooming! A strong, white rose bush that’s easy to keep going. Rose bush for the 55th (Emerald) anniversary   60th Anniversary – Diamond Sixty years is something rare. This rose or camellia is a wonderful way to mark the occasion.  Camellia plant for the 60th (Diamond) anniversary Rose bush for the 60th (Diamond) anniversary 65th Anniversary – Blue Sapphire For a long and remarkable journey together - this rose bush makes a fitting gift for sixty-five years together. Rose bush for the 65th (Blue Sapphire) anniversary   Browse All Wedding Anniversary Plants & Gifts Want more plant gift inspiration? Take a look at our shortlist of the six most romantic plants - from roses to unexpected picks that still say “I love you.”

We have a whole collection blooming with plants perfect for Mother’s Day. However, if you just want our very best recommendations or are stuck wondering, “What is actually a good plant for Mum?” below are some of our absolute favourites - plants we always recommend as great gift choices for Mother's Day. 3 Gorgeous Plant Gifts for Mum's Garden or Patio If your mum has a garden or patio, below are three plants we’d point you to first. These plants will bring colour, life, and something Mum can enjoy year after year (plus a little reminder of you every time she looks at them!). Pink Camellia 'Magic Mum' It’s in the name, 'Magic Mum'. A classic British-grown camellia, with glossy evergreen leaves and beautiful pink blooms that return year after year. Low-maintenance but always impressive. This lovely camellia comes gift-wrapped in our ‘Pretty in Pink’ wrap with a large bow, making it a ready-to-go present. You can add a personalised message to make it that bit more special. Shop Pink 'Magic Mum' Camellia  - £37.99   Mum in a Million Rose Bush  If you want the Mother’s Day rose, this is it. Big, fragrant pink blooms, a name that says it all, and a plant that keeps growing for years. This rose bush comes gift-wrapped with a bow, making it a fab, ready-to-give present for Mum. You can also add a personalised message to make it even more special. Shop Mum in a Million Rose Bush – £29.99  Camellia Tricolour Plant in Terracotta Pot Another camellia, because we really think this type of plant is such fabulous gifts for Mum. This one has three colours in one plant. The glossy green leaves and striking red, pink, and white blooms make it a real statement gift. Shop  Camellia Tricolour Plant & Pot£24.99 3 You-Can't-Go-Wrong Houseplant Gifts for Mum If your mum loves houseplants (or you just want to play it safe with a plant gift that’s easy to love), these are solid choices. They look great, don’t need much fuss, and will brighten up her space year-round. Purple Orchid Plant - Phalaenopsis Multiflora Orchids always feel special, and this Phalaenopsis Multiflora is no exception. Long-lasting blooms, an effortless sense of elegance, and surprisingly easy care make it a perfect Mother’s Day gift. It thrives in bright, indirect light and only needs watering every 7–10 days. You could always pick one up from the shop if Mum lives close by, or this can be delievred straight to her (next uk wrking delievry availbale).  Shop Purple Orchid Plant - £24.99 Spathiphyllum Peace Lily in Hessian Gift Wrap A classic choice, but still a little unique. The Peace Lily is a great choice for mums who love larger houseplants (this plant can grow up to about 1m in the right conditions), but don’t want something high-maintenance. It thrives in low to medium light, making it easy to place in living rooms, bedrooms, or hallways. Its glossy green leaves stay full year-round, and its lovely white flowers last for weeks. It also improves air quality, making it both a thoughtful and practical gift. Arrives in a 13cm pot at around 45-55cm in height. Shop Peace Lily - £16.99   String of Hearts Plant in 9cm Pot Not every mum has space for a big plant, and that’s what makes String of Hearts perfect. Its delicate trailing vines and heart-shaped leaves make it a symbol of love and connection, while its compact size means it fits on shelves, windowsills, or hanging in a cosy corner. Shop String of Hearts Plant & Pot - £11.99 While this 'best-of-the-best' selection is inspired by Mother's Day, there's no doubt that these gorgeous plants would make wonderful gifts for mum any time of year.

We think plants tell the best love stories.  They grow. They last. Some have heart-shaped leaves. Many have become symbolic of love and affection - tied to romance through traditions, history and culture. If you're looking for a Valentine’s Day plant, an anniversary plant, or just want to bring a bit of love into your space, these six plants are perfect for the job. #1. Red Rose Bush - the classic romantic plant No surprises here - roses are the classic symbol of love. But it's the bush, not the cut bouquet, that’s truly romantic. Unlike flowers that are enjoyed for a few days and then tossed away, a rose plant keeps growing and blooming year after year. What’s more symbolic of lasting romance than that? Perfect moment: Marking anniversaries, grand gestures, or saying "I love you" in the most classic way possible. Care needs: Loves full to partial sun. Keep soil moist but well-drained. Check the product page for specific care instructions.  Valentine’s Red Rose Bush Gift Wrapped - £29.99 Red Climbing Rose Bush in 3 Litre Pot - £26.99 #2. Hoya Heart Plant - the sweetest romantic plant This sweet little plant doesn’t try to be romantic - it just is. With thick, heart-shaped leaves, the Hoya Kerrii is a simple but meaningful way to say “I love you”. It doesn’t demand much attention and will sit happily in its pot for years, quietly proving that love doesn’t have to be high-maintenance. Perfect moment: A fun, low-key Valentine’s gift (or Galentines gift), a sweet anniversary token, or a gesture for someone who insists they "don’t need anything." Care needs: Requires at least half a day of bright, but indirect sunshine. Only needs moderate watering. Great for forgetful plant parents. Hoya Kerrii Heart Plant - £9.99 Hoya Kerrii Variegata Heart Plant - £9.99   #3. Anthurium - a glamorous type of romantic plant With its vibrant, heart-shaped flowers, Anthurium is a bold and passionate plant that captures attention. Its striking appearance makes it a memorable gift. Perfect moment: Valentine’s Day, romantic dinners, or decorating a shared space. Care needs: Thrives in bright, indirect light and needs low to moderate amount of watering. Red Anthurium Flamingo Plant - £14.99 Pink Flamingo Lily Anthurium Plant - £14.99   #4. String of Hearts - the effortlessly romantic plant Some plants grow up, but this one grows out - long, trailing vines covered in delicate, heart-shaped leaves. Whether draped over a shelf or hanging in a window, it quietly adds a touch of romance to any space. Perfect moment: A thoughtful gift for a long-distance partner, a reminder of someone special, or simply an elegant way to bring romance into a space. Care needs: Likes a good amount of light, but not direct sunlight. Water regularly in summer, letting the soil nearly dry between watering - avoid waterlogging. String of Hearts Hanging Plant – 14cm Pot - £29.99 String of Hearts Plant – 9cm Pot - £11.99 #5. Stephanotis on Hoop - a true, old-school romantic plant Madagascar jasmine, often called the "wedding plant," has long been a symbol of devotion, commitment, and lasting love. With its glossy green leaves, fragrant star-shaped white flowers, and twining vines that wrap elegantly around a hoop, it’s romance in plant form. Perfect moment: A meaningful wedding or anniversary gift, a classic romantic gesture, or for someone who appreciates an old-school kind of love. Care needs: Loves bright, indirect light and moderate watering - but let the soil dry slightly between drinks. In summer, it benefits from occasional misting to keep the foliage fresh, and a fortnightly feed from April to October encourages blooms. Stephanotis on Hoop (Madagascar Jasmine) in 12cm Pot - £19.99   #6. Swiss Cheese Plant - the big, bold romantic plant Not all romance is delicate and dainty - some of it is big, bold, and full of drama. The Swiss Cheese Plant (Monstera) brings the kind of romance that fills a room. With its striking, sculptural leaves and a habit of growing wildly when given the chance, this plant is for those who like their love stories a little untamed. Perfect moment: A gift for someone who appreciates bold gestures, a statement piece in a shared home, or an “accidentally” self-gifted plant (because you deserve it). Care needs: Tolerates various light conditions but avoid constant direct sunlight. Water when the top inch of soil is dry, ensuring excess drains away. Wipe leaves occasionally to keep them dust-free and feed monthly in spring and summer. Give it room to grow - it will take the hint. Swiss Cheese Plant Gift Wrapped - £20.99   For more romantic plant inspiration, explore our full collection of Valentine’s Day Plants.

As a start to this long adventure of learning and helping you to learn more about our products, and gardening in general in the UK, we are going to start by talking about our favourite fruit trees. In this article we will be looking at one of the most colourful trees, namely the lemon tree, these are a great choice for decorating all types of well-lit interiors or frost-protected areas. These trees can provide you with the joy that their fruits give you. Citrus Lemon Of Asian origin, the lemon tree (Citrus Limon) is a perennial fruit tree of the Rutaceae family. Its large, oval, bright green leaves are, like its flowers, very aromatic, with a characteristic thorn at the base. There are many varieties of the lemon tree and the different species differ in the shape and colour of their fruit, the lemons, and in the shape, acidity and ripening periods of the fruit. This fruit tree prefers a well-drained, fertile and humus-rich soil, in a sun-facing area and protected from the wind. The lemon tree is a medium-sized tree of the citrus genus, belonging to the Rutaceae family, which can live up to 70 years. It has a woody, yellowish, highly branched trunk and its large, oval, bright green leaves are very aromatic and have a characteristic thorn at the base. Its flowers, the orange blossom, also give off a great aroma. Its fruit, the lemon, is yellow or green in colour and has a thick rind that hides a white, spongy and tasteless layer, under which the pulp is found. The lemons sprout on one-year-old branches and on those with terminal buds. As for the harvesting, it must be done in a staggered way, when they are ripe, something that happens during almost the whole year. There are many varieties of lemon tree. Their different species are differentiated by the shape and colour of their fruits, the lemons, and by their shape, acidity and ripening periods. Basic care of the lemon tree Lemon trees require well-drained, fertile, humus-rich soil, which should be oriented towards the sun and protected from the wind. Watering and flowering They should be watered abundantly, especially when the fruits start to come out and during the flowering period. In the hot season it is important to water it daily, while in winter it can be watered for about 3 days. Whenever possible, water and fertiliser should be used. It would also be a good idea not to have other vegetation under the canopy, as it could consume nutrients from the roots. Fertiliser Fertiliser should be rich in macro-nutrients such as nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, and in micro-nutrients such as iodine, iron and vitamin A. It should be applied in spring and summer. It should be applied in spring and summer and, in order to do so, the height of the tree and the production of lemons should be taken into account, as the higher the production and the larger the size, the greater the nutrient supply should be. Pruning Pruning should be done annually during the period of vegetative inactivity, but especially in the first years of the lemon tree we should not overdo it. Above all, excess and dry branches should be removed to clear the way for the light to reach the tree. During this period, dead branches and other weaker branches should be removed, so that the rest of the tree has more strength. The tree is multiplied by grafting. Uses of the lemon tree As well as being present in many recipes of the Mediterranean gastronomy, the lemon also has other uses, for example: Food: it is commonly found in drinks, sauces or we can even see it enhancing the flavour of all kinds of recipes. Ornamental tree: there is no doubt, the lemon bush is ideal as decoration as long as the climate is not too cold. Medicinal plant: there are some studies that attribute certain medicinal properties to the lemon, including stress relief. Perfumery: its essential oils are commonly used in the elaboration of perfumes. Wood: this type of wood is hard and has a smooth bark, which is why it is highly appreciated in all types of woodwork. Frequently asked questions about the lemon tree We end this article with a series of frequently asked questions about this citrus tree: How long does it take to grow a lemon plant?The lemon tree will take between 3 and 6 years to bear fruit, so it is certainly a challenge of patience. If you want to accelerate the growth, you can buy a small tree to shorten the time. When do lemons flower?It depends largely on the climate and the variety of lemon tree, but it is usual for them to flower twice a year: 1) The first time between March and July. 2) The second time between August and September. How long does a lemon tree live?The maximum is usually around 70 years, but much depends on the conditions in which it grows. What is the lemon blossom called?The flower of the lemon tree is the orange blossom, they are white and their name comes from Arabic. It is the common name for the flowers of the orange and lemon tree. It is a common ingredient in herbal teas.

In this next post we will give our humble opinion, providing information about our irrigation techniques in Carbeth Plants. When should plants be watered One of the main mistakes we make when watering plants is to treat them all the same. Never forget that each plant has its own needs and some need moderate watering while others need abundant watering. Having said that, as soon as you buy a plant, check on the Internet or at the nursery where you bought it, what care it needs. Once you know what its needs are (abundant, moderate or scarce watering), you will be able to understand it and give it what it needs. How to know when to water plants We could say -in a very summarised way- that there are three types of plants in relation to watering: those that need to be watered when the substrate is completely dry, those that need the substrate to be always wet and cacti and succulents that need long periods with dry soil. Identify which of these three types of plant is yours and water accordingly. To do this, always look at the substrate and stick a toothpick, pencil or your own finger into the soil to see if the soil is moist or dry. If there is soil sticking to the stick or pencil when you pull it out, it is still wet. In case you are not sure whether the soil is wet or not, my advice is to wait a few days, it is better to under-water than over-water! What is the right watering frequency The plant itself will tell you how often you should water it. Imagine you have a plant that needs to have a moist substrate and you water it every Sunday. In this case there could be three situations: Sunday arrives and the soil is dry. This means that you will have to water your plant twice a week instead of once a week. Sunday arrives and the soil is very wet. This means that you either have to water it less or you have to water it every 10 days. Come Sunday and the soil is slightly damp. This means that you have found the perfect days to water your plant. Adapt your watering to the temperature We always insist that the best thing for our plants is to observe them to understand their needs. Don't get used to watering them one day a week - the example above was just that, an example - because depending on the time of year their water needs will change. In the summer the temperatures are higher and you will need to water your plants more frequently to keep them hydrated and cool. In winter the temperatures drop, the substrate stays wetter for longer and the plants go into vegetative rest, so we will reduce watering (always progressively) and even stop watering them almost completely in some species. How much water should I add? This depends on many factors such as the size of the pot, the substrate, the type of plant (Ficus, Calatea, Succulent, Cactus...) or the temperature/time of the year. However, in order to have an orientation that can serve as a guide, it is very useful to look at the drainage hole. In other words, water your plant until water comes out of the hole in the pot. When you see that water starts to come out, it means that it has reached the roots and that the amount of water is adequate and sufficient. When you pour the water in, do it a little at a time To avoid saturating the soil and overdoing it with water, it is advisable to pour the water into the pot a little at a time and see how it is absorbed by the soil and stop when you see that the water begins to run out of the drainage holes. It is possible that when watering several plants you will notice that some absorb the water very quickly, while others take a few seconds to "swallow" it. Don't worry about this, it is due to the amount and type of soil in each pot. However, caked substrates, which usually have very compact soil, take a long time to absorb the water and you have to make sure that the water drains through the hole in the pot because sometimes, because the soil is so caked, the water cannot penetrate to the roots and the plant does not hydrate. Why do plants need to be allowed to drain Not allowing the plant to drain is one of the biggest mistakes you can make when it comes to watering. What do I mean by draining? Always, always - I say it again just in case - always, always let the remaining water from watering drain out of the drainage hole before putting the plant back in its potting cover. Likewise, don't leave your plants with the saucer full of water as many species are prone to root rot and having stagnant water so close to them will lead to rotting or fungal problems. If you are reading this and have just realised that your pot does not have a drainage hole... Please make one now! Or change the pot, because if you overwater it, it is very easy for your plant to rot. What is the best time of day to water As the popular saying goes: Every little master has his own way of doing things. In our case, We water our plants in the following way: in summer at dusk because it is very hot.  This way I make sure that they are well hydrated and cool during the hottest nights. In winter We usually water them at midday. Why? Because this is the time when there is the most light and any excess water or humidity evaporates more easily. The important thing is to avoid watering them at the coldest times of the day so as not to generate excessive humidity. What irrigation methods are there and when should i use them We use three watering methods for watering my plants: traditional watering, immersion watering and spraying. TRADITIONAL WATERING We use it for plants that need moderate or little watering. I simply pour water over the substrate with a watering can until it comes out of the drainage hole. WATERING BY IMMERSION We reserve it for plants that require abundant watering and that are sensitive to root rot. Why? Because this way We make sure that the plant absorbs the humidity it needs and that We don't overdo it with the amount of water. To water plants by immersion, what We do is put the plant in a container of water. After about five minutes We remove it, let it drain and put it back in the pot cover. WATERING WITH A SPRAYER Spray watering - a small spray bottle - is used for plants that require a lot of moisture or very little water, such as succulents. For plants that require a lot of humidity (Marantas and Calateas) what We do is to water by immersion and then spray the leaves and the top layer of the substrate to make sure that it is always moist. For cacti and succulents that require a small amount of water, what We also do is to water them with a spray bottle without wetting the aerial part of the plant, We just spray water on the substrate. What can I do if I have watered too much? If you touch the soil and notice that it is too wet, take the plant out of the pot and wrap it in kitchen paper until you remove as much water as possible. If you do this and the substrate is still wet, place the plant - without putting it in the pot - on the terrace or in an airy place so that the earth ball dries out as soon as possible. Do I need to use bottled water for watering? In principle no, although there are plants with acidic soils such as Azaleas that do not like lime water. If the water in your city is very hard and has limescale, you can fill a bottle with water and leave it to stand for 24 hours. This will remove most of the limescale. Should I water with cold water? Watch out for this! Whenever you water your plants, always try to do so with water that is at room temperature. If you use water that is too cold or too hot, you can shock the plants and cause root damage. How do I know if a plant is over-watered? The most common symptom is that the leaves of the plant start to yellow and eventually fall off. How do I know if a plant needs watered? Because the stems and leaves will look shriveled or wilted. As soon as you water the plant and it is hydrated again, these symptoms will disappear. However, when the plant is over-watered, the consequences of dehydration do not disappear. And that's all for today's post!

Indoor plants do not need the same care in summer as in winter. It must be taken into account that with the arrival of cold weather, temperatures drop, the hours of daylight decrease and an element comes into play that complicates everything a little and that is called heating. What care do plants need in winter? With the cold weather we must change some of our care habits: Watering: reduce the frequency, quantity and timing of watering. Humidity: provide more humidity. Location: light and away from heating. Fertilisation: do not fertilise the plants until spring. Pruning: this is the time to clean damaged leaves. Leaves: it is important to keep them clean. What happens to plants when the cold weather arrives. Before explaining in more detail the care of indoor plants in winter, We think it is also important to explain what happens to plants when the cold weather arrives. Plants feed on light and use all the energy provided by the sun to flower, put out new leaves and continue to develop. We must not forget another fundamental factor in the development of a plant: temperature. Each plant has its own needs, but it is essential for them to have warm temperatures that allow them to continue growing. With the arrival of winter and due to the drop in temperatures, plants enter a period of rest or vegetative rest. As the temperature conditions are not optimal for their development, plants "reserve" all the energy provided by the sun during the winter in order to grow more vigorously in spring, when warmer temperatures arrive. If this is so, why do some plants flower in autumn? It is true that there are plants such as flower in autumn. This is due to because these particular plants tolerate lower temperatures for growth and development. However, when temperatures are lower than these plants need to thrive, they will also go into dormancy. Do all plants go into dormancy? It depends on the climate, but whenever there is frost or the temperatures are really cold, yes, the plants will go into dormancy. Moreover, this vegetative rest is essential for them because during these months they accumulate energy and "train" themselves to grow with greater vitality and strength with the arrival of spring. It is advisable for plants to enjoy at least two months of vegetative rest. In cities with constant warm temperatures, plants do not have this rest and although they survive without it, they become weaker and more prone to attack by pests and fungi. Watering in winter There are three things to bear in mind when it comes to watering your plants in winter: Frequency of watering: now that the temperatures are lower, the humidity in the soil lasts longer, so it is important to space out the watering. If in summer we watered twice a week, now watering once a week will be enough. How do we know if we are watering too much or too little? Always pay close attention to the substrate. When it is time to water your plant, first look at the soil and check whether it is moist or not. But don't just look at the surface, dip your finger into the substrate and assess how wet it is. If it is still wet, don't water and wait a few days. This is important because overwatering can cause fungus problems! Amount of water when watering: as plants enter a period of rest in winter and their aerial activity (leaves and stems) comes to a standstill, they need less water to survive. For this reason, we will also have to adjust the amount of water we give them and gradually reduce it. Time of day to water: In summer, I like to water in the evening because it is so hot that the plants appreciate being cool and hydrated. However, this rule does not apply in winter. Why not? Well, because at night the temperatures drop, the heaters are turned off and having the plant freshly watered at the coldest time of the day is not suitable for it. In winter it is better to water during the day, for example at midday: there is light, there is sunshine and any excessive humidity caused by watering will leave the plant sooner. Ambient Humidity Forgetting about humidity during the winter is a very common mistake. We think that because it is cold, plants are well hydrated and do not need humidity. How can you know if your plants need humidity? Look at the tips of the leaves, are they dry or brown? If your answer is yes, it means that your plants need humidity. But this is not the case. It is rather the opposite. In winter we have the heaters or radiators on and these provoke an environmental dryness that our plants are going to notice and suffer. Providing them with humidity is relatively simple and you can do it in two ways: spraying their leaves from time to time or using a humidifier. Location of the Plants Another aspect to take into account during the winter is the location. Mainly for two reasons: Lighting: in winter, the hours of light and its intensity decrease, so it is important to find a place in the house near light points so that they receive all the sun they need. Heating: as far as possible, it would be a good idea to place your plants away from radiators, as direct heat can be harmful to them. In addition, sudden changes in temperature (from room temperature to heating) are not beneficial. Pruning/ Cleaning We have called it pruning because We didn't know how to define this point, but more than pruning, We mean cleaning the plant. That is to say, take advantage of the arrival of winter to cut those dry or yellow leaves that you think are going to dry out soon. We always recommend doing this so that the plant does not "waste" energy on leaves that will inevitably be lost and have no continuity. Leaves During autumn and winter there are fewer hours of light and therefore the plant receives less energy or food. Our job here is to make it as easy as possible for them to take in as much light or energy as possible. We have already mentioned that in winter plants should be placed in a place where they receive more light. But as you are well aware, plants capture light through their leaves, so it is essential to keep them clean so that they can feed properly. Did you know that dust or dirt accumulated on the leaves can complicate photosynthesis? The truth is that the leaves would have to be very dirty to prevent them from absorbing the sun's energy, but to avoid unnecessary risks, it is advisable to keep the leaves clean during the winter. You can wipe them with a cloth dipped in water and pass it over each one. This way, they will be in perfect condition to make the most of the hours of light available during the winter. We hope these tips will help you take care of your houseplants during the winter! Feel free to share with me any tips or questions! We'll read you in the comments!