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Protect Spring Bulbs From Squirrels, Mice and Other Garden Raiders You're done planting your bulbs and patting the soil down. You go inside feeling pleased with yourself, looking forward to the spring flowers blooming and colouring up your garden soon. Then a few mornings pass, and you find little craters where your tulips used to be. If you want to protect spring bulbs like these from suffering a similar fate, we have good news: it doesn't take much to protect them. All you need to do is follow a few of the right habits at planting time, and most of the common garden pests UK gardeners have to deal with, like squirrels, will look elsewhere for their dinner. This guide covers why newly planted bulbs are easy targets for garden pests, which ones animals usually leave alone, and the simple barriers that you should put up before the ground gets too cold. Key Takeaways Timing matters most. Bulbs are highly vulnerable in the days right after planting, while the soil is still loose. Not every variety is a target. Animals dig up bulbs like tulips and crocus, while daffodils and hyacinths are generally safe. A barrier works best. Wire mesh covering the bed is a simple and reliable way to protect the bulbs underneath from pests. Small habits help. Clearing away loose bulb skins and firming the soil back down helps keep critters away. Foliage pests come later. Once bulbs start growing, slugs often go after the shoots and flower buds, not the bulbs themselves. Why Newly Planted Bulbs Are an Easy Target After you plant your spring bulbs, animals are drawn in by freshly turned soil, not just the bulb sitting underneath it. Mice and squirrels notice disturbed ground almost immediately. It is far easier for them to dig through loose earth than an established lawn or flower bed. For a spring bloom, the bulbs should be planted in autumn, right when hungry wildlife is busy building up food reserves for the colder months ahead. This means the timing works against you before you've even finished with the trowel. After bulb planting, the soil remains loose for a few weeks. That is exactly when they're at their most vulnerable state. Once the ground settles and a proper frost sets in, the colder weather firms everything up. This makes digging difficult, and most creatures give up and move on elsewhere. That short stretch between putting bulbs in the ground and the soil hardening is really the only window you need to actively defend. Once you get through that successfully, the rest is largely left in peace to grow. Pick the Right Varieties to Protect Spring Bulbs With Ease Plant spring bulbs that pests were never that interested in to begin with. This is genuinely one of the easiest ways to protect your bulbs without doing any extra work. Tulips and crocus both have a taste and texture that mice find worth digging for. This makes these bulbs the most targeted by rodents. Daffodils, on the other hand, contain a natural compound that most mammals find unpleasant. This is the reason why beds full of them and other narcissi so rarely get touched. Rodents in particular tend to steer well clear once they've had one disappointing taste. Mixing different types of bulbs works well here. For example, planting a few resistant hyacinths around the edge of a tulip bed can help deter animals from bothering with the more tempting varieties in the middle. Flower bulbs need plenty of good drainage too, since damp, waterlogged environments cause far more losses each year than any pest does. Spring flowers such as crocus won't come back reliably if they're sitting in soggy ground, so get the site right before worrying about the wildlife.   Bulb Pest risk Who tends to go for them Tulip High Mice, squirrels Crocus High Mice, squirrels Daffodil Low Generally avoided Hyacinth Low Generally avoided Snowdrop Low Generally avoided Build a Simple Physical Barrier to Protect Your Bulbs from Critters Placing a barrier over the planting area stops most diggers before they get started. It's one of the easiest ways to keep bulbs safe. Once you've laid the bulbs and covered them with soil, place a sheet of chicken wire or fine mesh right on top of the bed and pin it down at the corners. Squirrels can't get through it, and because the holes are wide enough, shoots and foliage will still grow up through them without any trouble come spring. If mice are more of a problem in your garden, hardware cloth works better than standard chicken wire, since the gaps are smaller. For pots or spots where you plant bulbs every year, wire mesh cages are worth the investment. You can buy these ready-made from most garden centres or make your own using a roll of fine mesh folded into a box shape around the bulbs before you bury them. Once shoots start pushing up near the surface in late winter, it's safe to remove the covers. Small Habits That Make a Big Difference Pests rely on scent trails to find your bulbs. A few minutes of tidying after planting removes most of the scent trail and keeps them safe. Do not leave any loose bulb skins, empty packaging, or clumps of dug-up soil around your plants. Instead, clear them away rather than leaving them scattered around your planted bulbs. Firm the soil back down properly once you've finished, since loose ground is both easier to dig and a clearer sign that something's been buried nearby. You can also try planting a little deeper than the packet suggests, where the bulb type allows for it. This gives you more of a buffer and helps insulate the bulb against sudden frost damage later in the season. This also offers a bit of extra frost protection through the coldest snap of winter. Bulbs don't need feeding once they're in, but they do benefit from a bit of extra care above ground. Add a layer of mulch or compost over the bed once you've finished. It does double duty: It masks the disturbed-soil smell that first attracts wildlife It helps keep the soil at a steadier soil temperature, retain moisture, and buffer against sharp temperature swings underground. If squirrels are a persistent problem, apply a layer of coarse grit on top as well; most animals dislike digging through it, making it a great option for how to protect bulbs from squirrels. Looking After Bulbs Once They're Growing Just because the bulb is in the ground doesn't mean you are done protecting it. Once shoots break through the soil surface, keep them watered if the weather's been dry, but don't feed at this stage, since spring flowering bulbs already carry everything they need to bloom without any bulb food. Weeds nearby can crowd out young foliage and flowers, so keep the bed clear as shoots come through. Slugs nibble fresh growth given the chance and become more of a concern once buds and leaves are up. A thin layer of grit or a copper barrier around emerging shoots is usually enough to keep them off. With early spring warmth and the right growing conditions, most spring blooms push on quickly. By the time you see the first hints of colour, most of the hard work is already behind you. Bulbs may take a little longer to flower in a particularly cold winter, but that's nothing to worry about. Get Your Garden Ready for Spring Bloom A little planning at the best time to plant can go a long, long way toward helping you protect your garden season after season. Choose a few pest-resistant bulb types, put up a simple barrier, and tidy as you go. You'll have done most of what's needed to protect your spring display through the winter months and into the spring season. Once these few habits become second nature, the bulbs are easy to look after, and any gardener adding colour to homes and gardens across the UK can put them to use. If you're stocking up, browse our spring bulbs collection for a full range of tulips, daffodils, hyacinths and more. For expert tips on what will do best in your garden, get in touch with our team. Frequently Asked Questions Do squirrels eat bulbs? Yes, particularly spring bulbs like tulips and crocus. Squirrels dig up and eat them shortly after planting. Daffodils and hyacinths are far less appealing to them, so mixing pest-resistant varieties into a bed alongside a simple barrier is a reliable way to protect the rest. What eats daffodil bulbs? Not many animals do, in most gardens. Daffodils contain a natural compound that most mammals find unpleasant, which is why squirrels, mice and rabbits generally leave them alone. This makes daffodils one of the more reliable spring flower choices, especially if pest damage has been an ongoing problem in your garden. How can I keep animals from eating my tulip bulbs? Put up a physical barrier to cover the bulbs. Tulips are one of the most targeted bulbs, so a barrier is worth the effort. Lay the bulbs, cover them with soil, then fit mesh over the bed. You can also grow tulips inside a wire cage if you're using pots or a spot you replant every year. How to stop squirrels digging up bulbs in my garden? Place a layer of chicken wire or fine mesh over the bed. That is one of the most effective ways to protect newly planted bulbs. Combine it with a thin layer of grit above the bulbs and clear away any loose soil and planting debris. These actions work together to make the area far less tempting for squirrels to investigate. What's the best squirrel deterrent for gardens? Physical barriers work best in the long term, since scent-based deterrents wash away in the rain and need reapplying often. Wire mesh over newly planted beds, paired with tidying away bulb debris, does more to keep squirrels off than relying on a spray or granule alone. How to deter squirrels from gardens? Focus on the weeks immediately after planting, since that's when the soil is loosest and easiest to dig. A mesh barrier, careful cleanup of planting debris, and firming the soil back down can all help deter squirrels from investigating freshly planted areas. Can I use chicken wire to protect bulbs? Yes, chicken wire is a good option for larger animals such as squirrels. For mice, choose a finer mesh instead, since standard gaps are usually too wide to stop them getting through. What type of mesh can I use to protect bulbs from squirrels? Standard chicken wire with roughly 25mm gaps is enough to stop squirrels from digging through, while still leaving enough room for shoots to grow up through it in spring. Most garden centres stock it in rolls of various widths. Can plants grow through chicken wire? Yes. The gaps in standard chicken wire are wide enough for shoots and foliage to grow through without any trouble, so you don't necessarily need to remove the mesh when the first shoots appear. How do I care for bulbs after planting? Water them only if the weather has been dry, and hold off on feeding since bulbs already contain what they need to flower. Keep the bed weeded and watch for slugs once shoots appear. If you've used mesh for protection, check it as the plants grow to make sure it isn't restricting emerging shoots or foliage. How do I preserve bulbs for next season? Most spring bulbs can be left in the ground, and they will come back on their own each year. Lifting and storing bulbs is a slightly different job that is worth covering on its own. We recommend you get in touch with our team for tailored advice if that's what you need.

Getting spring bulbs into the ground early is one of the biggest factors behind a strong, early display. Many gardeners choose the wrong depth, pick a spot with poor drainage, or leave planting until the ground has already turned cold, and the result is patchy or delayed flowering. Here, we'll walk through which bulbs bloom soonest, how to plant spring bulbs for early bloom correctly, and the small details that make the difference between an early show of colour and a disappointing one. You will find practical guidance on planting spring bulbs for early bloom, from choosing early-flowering varieties to depth, spacing, growing bulbs in pots, and looking after them once they're in so they come back again next year. Whether you're planting your first batch of bulbs or topping up an existing bed, a few adjustments to variety choice and technique can bring your display forward by weeks. Key Takeaways Choosing early flowering types, not just planting early, is what really brings bloom forward Snowdrops and crocus are among the first spring bulbs to flower, often from January onward Most bulbs need planting to roughly two to three times their own depth Good drainage matters as much as timing, since waterlogged bulbs are prone to rotting Bulbs grow just as well in pots and containers as they do in open ground Leaving foliage to die back naturally helps bulbs come back year after year Choosing Bulbs That Flower Earliest If an early display is the goal, some spring bulbs are simply quicker off the mark than others, regardless of when in autumn they're planted. Snowdrops are usually first to open, often pushing through as early as January Crocus follows shortly after, well suited to lawns and borders alike Early daffodils and muscari bring colour from late winter into early spring Hyacinth bulbs add scent as well as some of the earliest colour, particularly when grown indoors Early tulip varieties round out the display once the first bulbs are already in bloom Crocus in particular is often chosen as one of the easiest of these to establish, since it copes well in both lawns and borders without much ongoing attention. Mixing two or three of these types together, rather than relying on just one, tends to give the longest run of early colour. For the full range of options suited to an early UK garden, our spring bulbs collection covers each of these types and more. Getting the Timing Right for Planting Spring Bulbs for Early Bloom The variety you are choosing does most of the work, but timing still matters. Getting bulbs into the ground while the soil still holds some warmth from summer gives roots longer to establish before winter slows everything down. This, in turn, supports stronger, earlier flowering. Crocus, muscari, and hyacinth generally go in earliest in the autumn planting window Tulips are usually planted a little later, since they prefer slightly cooler soil Bulbs planted several weeks before the first hard frost tend to establish better than those rushed in at the last minute If you do plant later than you'd planned, it isn't the end of the world. Bulbs put in during early winter will often still flower, just a touch later than they would have otherwise. If you've missed the ideal planting window, it's usually still worth getting healthy bulbs into the ground as long as the soil is workable and not waterlogged. Step by Step: How to Plant Your Bulbs The steps below cover planting spring bulbs for early bloom, whether you're working with a border, a raised bed, or a patch of lawn set aside for naturalising. Choose a spot with good drainage, since bulbs left sitting in wet soil are prone to rotting over winter Dig a hole to roughly two to three times the bulb's own depth, pointed end facing up If a bulb's orientation isn't clear, plant it on its side, as most will still find their way up Space bulbs at least twice their own width apart, closer together for a fuller, more natural look Backfill with soil and firm gently, without compacting it too hard Water once after planting to settle the soil around the bulb, then let autumn rainfall take over from there. In normally damp autumn conditions, extra watering usually isn't needed. Working some compost into heavy or clay-based soil before planting helps drainage and gives roots an easier path down. For a natural, drift-like look rather than neat rows, scatter handfuls of bulbs across the bed and simply plant them where they land. Planting Spring Bulbs in Pots and Containers Growing bulbs in containers is a good option for patios, balconies, or smaller gardens, and it also gives you some control over exactly when flowers appear. Use a peat-free compost mixed with a little grit for extra drainage Choose a pot with drainage holes, since a container that stays wet is one of the more common causes of bulb failure Bulbs sit closer together in pots than they would in open ground, since a full, packed display is usually the goal rather than long-term spacing Containers make it easy to position bulbs where you'll see them at their best, and you can combine varieties with different flowering times for a longer display Our indoor bulbs range includes varieties suited to growing on a windowsill or porch, ideal if you'd like blooms indoors ahead of the garden. Helping Bulbs Come Back Year After Year Bulbs that are looked after properly once they've finished flowering tend to come back stronger the following spring. Let foliage die back naturally rather than cutting it while it's still green, since the leaves are feeding the bulb for next year Deadhead spent flowers so energy goes into the bulb rather than into producing seed A light feed once flowering has finished supports next year's display, particularly for bulbs left in the same spot for several years Allium and bluebells are especially good at naturalising, spreading gradually across a bed or lawn over several seasons The leaves can look untidy for a few weeks after flowering finishes, but that's when the bulb is storing the energy it needs for next year, so it's worth resisting the urge to tie them up or trim them back too soon. Common Mistakes That Delay or Ruin Early Bloom A handful of avoidable mistakes account for most disappointing bulb displays. Relying only on later flowering types and expecting an early display regardless Choosing a spot with poor drainage, which leads to rot over winter Planting too shallow, leaving bulbs more exposed to frost and drying out Cutting back foliage too soon after flowering, which weakens the bulb for the following year Leaving bulbs in the same spot for too many years without feeding or dividing them Ready to Get Your Bulbs In the Ground Planting spring bulbs for early bloom comes down to choosing the right varieties, getting the depth and drainage right, and giving bulbs time to settle before winter. Browse our spring bulbs collection to find early flowering varieties for your garden or containers, or visit Carbeth Plants to see the full range on offer. Get in touch if you have any questions about choosing or planting your bulbs this season. Frequently Asked Questions How do I get spring bulbs to bloom earlier? Choosing naturally early varieties makes more difference than planting date alone. Snowdrops and crocus flower earliest, often from January, followed by muscari and hyacinth. Getting them into the ground with enough time to establish roots before the first frost also helps them perform at their best. How deep should I plant spring bulbs? As a general rule, plant bulbs to roughly two to three times their own depth, pointed end facing up. Smaller bulbs like crocus need less soil above them than larger ones like daffodils or tulips, and good drainage at that depth matters just as much as the measurement itself. Can I plant spring bulbs in pots? Yes, bulbs do well in containers, provided the compost drains freely and the pot has drainage holes. Planting them a little closer together than you would in open ground gives a fuller display, and moving the pot to a warmer spot can even bring flowering forward slightly. Do spring bulbs come back every year? Most spring bulbs return for several years if the foliage is left to die back naturally after flowering rather than being cut back early. Allium and bluebells naturalise particularly well, spreading gradually across a bed or lawn given a few undisturbed seasons and a light feed each year. What bulbs bloom earliest in spring? Snowdrops are usually first, often flowering as early as January in a sheltered spot. Crocus and early daffodil varieties follow shortly after, bringing colour through late winter and into early spring before most of the garden has properly woken up for the season. Can I still plant bulbs if I'm later than planned? Bulbs planted into early winter will often still flower, just slightly later than an autumn planting would. It's generally better to plant late than not at all, provided the ground isn't frozen solid, though earlier planting still gives the strongest and most reliable results.

A pot grown Christmas tree brings a living centrepiece into your home each December. But keeping it healthy takes more than finding a spot by the window. Many potted trees struggle indoors because of dry heat, inconsistent watering, or being kept inside for too long. Here, we'll walk through what a tree in a pot needs from the moment it arrives, through the festive weeks, and once the decorations come down. You will find practical steps for choosing a healthy tree, positioning it indoors, watering and feeding it correctly, and deciding whether to move it back outside or plant it in the garden once Christmas is over. With the right care, a potted Christmas tree can be reused for several years rather than thrown away right after Christmas. Whether this is your first pot grown tree or you have kept one before, small adjustments to how it is watered and where it stands can make a noticeable difference to how well it copes indoors. Key Takeaways Pick a tree with a healthy root system and a pot size suited to your space Keep the tree away from radiators and other direct heat sources Check the soil regularly and water only when it feels dry Limit how long the tree stays indoors to reduce stress on its roots Let the tree adjust gradually before moving it back outside Plant it in the garden if you want it to grow again for next Christmas Choosing the Right Pot Grown Christmas Tree A pot grown tree needs more thought at the point of sale than a cut tree. That's because its roots have to survive the whole festive period and beyond. A few checks before you buy make a real difference to how well it settles in. What to Check Before You Buy The tree sits in a pot with visible roots, not a rootball wrapped in netting. Needles are firm and green, without any dry patches or excess shedding when touched. The tree looks like it has spent most of its time outdoors rather than in a heated shop. The pot size suits your space now, with a little room to grow before it needs a larger container. Common Pot Grown Varieties Norway spruce and Nordmann fir are the types of Christmas trees most commonly sold as pot grown in the UK. Carbeth Plants stocks several other pot grown varieties, including: Blue Spruce Noble Fir Fraser Fir Serbian Spruce Each can be kept in a container for a few years before it needs planting out or a larger pot. So, choosing between them often comes down to needle drop and shape preference rather than how they are grown. How to Care for a Pot Grown Christmas Tree Indoors Getting a tree indoors without shocking it takes a gradual approach, along with the right spot once it is in the house. Acclimatising the Tree Before It Comes Inside Move the tree from the garden or driveway into an unheated porch, garage, or hallway first. Leave it there for a day or two before it faces central heating. Positioning the Tree Indoors Keep it away from radiators, fireplaces, and other heat sources, since warm, dry air causes early needle drop. Choose a spot near a window with natural light, but out of strong direct sun. Stand the pot on a saucer or tray to protect flooring and make it easier to check the soil. Position the tree where a fully watered pot cannot easily be knocked, especially around children or pets. Watering a Potted Christmas Tree During Winter A pot grown Christmas tree still needs regular water indoors, even though it is not actively growing at this time of year. How to Check If It Needs Water Push a finger a couple of centimetres into the soil Water only when it feels dry that far down, rather than on a fixed schedule Repeat this check every two to three days in a centrally heated room, adjusting for how quickly the soil dries Avoiding Overwatering Overwatering is just as damaging as letting the tree dry out. Make sure the pot has proper drainage, and avoid leaving it sitting in a full saucer of water between checks. Feeding a Pot Grown Christmas Tree Feeding is not usually necessary while the tree is indoors for a short period over Christmas, since it is not in active growth at this stage. Hold off on feeding immediately after moving the tree, since a stressed root system benefits more from settling in first. If the tree stays potted for several months or through the following spring, a general liquid feed formulated for container plants, used according to the product instructions, can support new growth once temperatures rise. Once the tree is back outside and growing normally, an occasional feed through spring and summer supports steady growth for the following year. How Long to Keep Your Tree Indoors Most pot grown Christmas trees cope well indoors for around ten to twelve days. Beyond this, warm indoor air starts to take a toll. Signs it has been inside too long include: Needles turning brittle or dropping more than usual Branches feeling noticeably lighter or less springy than when the tree arrived Little to no improvement after adjusting watering Trees brought in earlier in December, or left up well into January, tend to show more needle loss than those given a shorter stretch indoors. Moving Your Christmas Tree Back Outside After Christmas Once the festive period ends, the tree needs the same gradual approach in reverse. Here's how you can reacclimatise the tree: Choose a sheltered spot, such as a porch or against a wall, for the first few days. Let it adjust to lower temperatures before facing open exposure. Avoid moving it straight into frost or strong wind after weeks in a warm room, since the sudden shift can shock the roots and foliage. Once it has settled outside for a week or so, move it to its usual position in the garden or on a patio. Planting a Pot Grown Christmas Tree in the Garden If you would like your tree to keep growing rather than staying in a container, planting it out is an option once the ground is workable and not frozen. Steps for planting the tree outdoors: Choose a spot with enough space for the tree's eventual size, since even container-grown types can reach a considerable height over several years Dig a hole slightly wider than the pot Loosen the roots gently before placing the tree in Backfill with the removed soil, firming it in as you go Water well after planting to help the roots settle into their new surroundings Caring for Your Tree Through the Year A pot grown Christmas tree kept outdoors for most of the year needs a little ongoing attention to stay healthy for next Christmas. Water during dry spells, even though the tree needs less attention than in winter Check every year or two to see if it has outgrown its container Move it into a slightly larger pot before the roots become cramped, which keeps growth steady and makes it easier to bring indoors again Trim any damaged or crossing branches in spring to keep the shape tidy Keep Your Tree Thriving Year After Year Caring for a pot grown Christmas tree comes down to a few consistent habits: checking the soil before watering, keeping it away from heat sources, and giving it time to adjust whenever it moves between indoors and outdoors. Followed closely, these steps can keep the same tree going for several festive seasons. Browse our pot grown Christmas trees to find one ready for its first Christmas in your home. Take a look at our full collection if you are sorting out any other plants or gifts for the season. Get in touch if you have questions about choosing or caring for your precious plant. Frequently Asked Questions How do I care for a pot grown Christmas tree indoors? Keep it away from radiators and direct heat, check the soil every few days, and water only when it feels dry. Stand the pot on a saucer to catch drips, and limit the indoor stay to around ten to twelve days for the best results. What are the best fertilisers for pot grown Christmas trees? A general liquid feed made for container plants works well, but only once the tree is settled and back outside. Avoid feeding immediately after moving it indoors or straight after replanting, since the roots need time to settle before they can make use of added nutrients. Which watering schedule is ideal for potted Christmas trees during winter? There is no fixed schedule to follow. Check the soil every two to three days and water when it feels dry a couple of centimetres down, adjusting for how warm the room is and how quickly the pot drains between waterings, especially in centrally heated homes. What temperature should I keep a pot grown Christmas tree in my home? A cool room away from radiators and fires suits it best. Consistently warm, dry air causes more problems than a slightly cooler spot near a window, so a hallway, porch, or unheated room often works better for the tree than a warm living room over Christmas. Can I plant my pot grown Christmas tree in the garden after Christmas? Yes, once the ground is not frozen and workable. Let the tree acclimatise outdoors for a week or so first, then choose a spot with room for future growth and water it well after planting to help the roots settle into their new surroundings. How long does a pot grown Christmas tree last indoors? Around ten to twelve days is typical before warm indoor air starts affecting the needles. Keeping the visit short and the room on the cooler side helps the tree recover more quickly once it moves back outside for the rest of the year.

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Indoor plants do not need the same care in summer as in winter. It must be taken into account that with the arrival of cold weather, temperatures drop, the hours of daylight decrease and an element comes into play that complicates everything a little and that is called heating. What care do plants need in winter? With the cold weather we must change some of our care habits: Watering: reduce the frequency, quantity and timing of watering. Humidity: provide more humidity. Location: light and away from heating. Fertilisation: do not fertilise the plants until spring. Pruning: this is the time to clean damaged leaves. Leaves: it is important to keep them clean. What happens to plants when the cold weather arrives. Before explaining in more detail the care of indoor plants in winter, We think it is also important to explain what happens to plants when the cold weather arrives. Plants feed on light and use all the energy provided by the sun to flower, put out new leaves and continue to develop. We must not forget another fundamental factor in the development of a plant: temperature. Each plant has its own needs, but it is essential for them to have warm temperatures that allow them to continue growing. With the arrival of winter and due to the drop in temperatures, plants enter a period of rest or vegetative rest. As the temperature conditions are not optimal for their development, plants "reserve" all the energy provided by the sun during the winter in order to grow more vigorously in spring, when warmer temperatures arrive. If this is so, why do some plants flower in autumn? It is true that there are plants such as flower in autumn. This is due to because these particular plants tolerate lower temperatures for growth and development. However, when temperatures are lower than these plants need to thrive, they will also go into dormancy. Do all plants go into dormancy? It depends on the climate, but whenever there is frost or the temperatures are really cold, yes, the plants will go into dormancy. Moreover, this vegetative rest is essential for them because during these months they accumulate energy and "train" themselves to grow with greater vitality and strength with the arrival of spring. It is advisable for plants to enjoy at least two months of vegetative rest. In cities with constant warm temperatures, plants do not have this rest and although they survive without it, they become weaker and more prone to attack by pests and fungi. Watering in winter There are three things to bear in mind when it comes to watering your plants in winter: Frequency of watering: now that the temperatures are lower, the humidity in the soil lasts longer, so it is important to space out the watering. If in summer we watered twice a week, now watering once a week will be enough. How do we know if we are watering too much or too little? Always pay close attention to the substrate. When it is time to water your plant, first look at the soil and check whether it is moist or not. But don't just look at the surface, dip your finger into the substrate and assess how wet it is. If it is still wet, don't water and wait a few days. This is important because overwatering can cause fungus problems! Amount of water when watering: as plants enter a period of rest in winter and their aerial activity (leaves and stems) comes to a standstill, they need less water to survive. For this reason, we will also have to adjust the amount of water we give them and gradually reduce it. Time of day to water: In summer, I like to water in the evening because it is so hot that the plants appreciate being cool and hydrated. However, this rule does not apply in winter. Why not? Well, because at night the temperatures drop, the heaters are turned off and having the plant freshly watered at the coldest time of the day is not suitable for it. In winter it is better to water during the day, for example at midday: there is light, there is sunshine and any excessive humidity caused by watering will leave the plant sooner. Ambient Humidity Forgetting about humidity during the winter is a very common mistake. We think that because it is cold, plants are well hydrated and do not need humidity. How can you know if your plants need humidity? Look at the tips of the leaves, are they dry or brown? If your answer is yes, it means that your plants need humidity. But this is not the case. It is rather the opposite. In winter we have the heaters or radiators on and these provoke an environmental dryness that our plants are going to notice and suffer. Providing them with humidity is relatively simple and you can do it in two ways: spraying their leaves from time to time or using a humidifier. Location of the Plants Another aspect to take into account during the winter is the location. Mainly for two reasons: Lighting: in winter, the hours of light and its intensity decrease, so it is important to find a place in the house near light points so that they receive all the sun they need. Heating: as far as possible, it would be a good idea to place your plants away from radiators, as direct heat can be harmful to them. In addition, sudden changes in temperature (from room temperature to heating) are not beneficial. Pruning/ Cleaning We have called it pruning because We didn't know how to define this point, but more than pruning, We mean cleaning the plant. That is to say, take advantage of the arrival of winter to cut those dry or yellow leaves that you think are going to dry out soon. We always recommend doing this so that the plant does not "waste" energy on leaves that will inevitably be lost and have no continuity. Leaves During autumn and winter there are fewer hours of light and therefore the plant receives less energy or food. Our job here is to make it as easy as possible for them to take in as much light or energy as possible. We have already mentioned that in winter plants should be placed in a place where they receive more light. But as you are well aware, plants capture light through their leaves, so it is essential to keep them clean so that they can feed properly. Did you know that dust or dirt accumulated on the leaves can complicate photosynthesis? The truth is that the leaves would have to be very dirty to prevent them from absorbing the sun's energy, but to avoid unnecessary risks, it is advisable to keep the leaves clean during the winter. You can wipe them with a cloth dipped in water and pass it over each one. This way, they will be in perfect condition to make the most of the hours of light available during the winter. We hope these tips will help you take care of your houseplants during the winter! Feel free to share with me any tips or questions! We'll read you in the comments!