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If you have just bought a bag of tulip or daffodil bulbs and are not sure what to do next, you are not alone. Getting the timing right matters more than most gardeners expect, since bulbs planted too early or too late often struggle to flower well the following spring. This guide covers when to plant spring bulbs in UK gardens, along with planting depth, pot planting, naturalising and the common mistakes that hold back a good display. Whether you are planting a full border or a single pot by the front door, the steps below apply to most popular varieties. You will also find quick answers to the questions gardeners ask most often about timing, storage and technique. Key Takeaways Most spring bulbs go into the ground between September and November, before the first hard frost arrives. Daffodils are best planted early, from September, while tulips prefer late October to November. Plant bulbs at a depth of roughly two to three times their own height, pointed end facing up. Bulbs in pots need good drainage holes and a free-draining compost mix. Bulbs left in the ground can often flower again the following year if the soil drains well and is not waterlogged. Late planting into December is still possible, though flowering may be a little delayed. Best Time to Plant Spring Bulbs in UK Gardens The general rule for planting spring bulbs is straightforward: get them into the soil during autumn, ideally between September and November. This gives the roots enough time to establish before winter sets in and the ground becomes too cold or waterlogged to work with easily. Soil temperature plays a bigger part in this than most people realise. Bulbs need a spell of cool soil to trigger root growth, which is why planting too early into warm autumn soil can lead to weaker rooting. Gardeners in colder parts of Scotland or northern England may want to plant a little earlier than those in milder southern counties, simply because the ground cools faster there. If you are ever unsure, it is usually safer to plant slightly earlier rather than risk running out of good planting weather. Checking the soil before planting is worth the effort. Ground that is still warm and dry from summer is fine to plant into, but avoid working heavy clay soil when it is very wet, since this can compact the ground and make it harder for roots to spread out properly. Our full spring bulbs range is a useful starting point if you want to plan out a mixed display before autumn arrives. Planting Times for Popular Spring Bulbs Different bulbs suit slightly different windows, and getting this right makes a noticeable difference to flowering. As a rough guide: Daffodils – plant from September to early October for strong root growth before the cold arrives. Tulips – best left until late October or November, since later planting reduces the risk of tulip fire disease. Crocus – plant in September or October for reliable early spring colour in beds or lawns. Hyacinths – plant in October, choosing a sheltered spot if scent and display matter to you. Alliums – plant in October or November in well-drained soil to avoid rot over winter. Fritillaries – plant as soon as they are bought, since these bulbs dry out quickly and dislike being stored. How to Plant Spring Bulbs the Right Way Getting the depth right makes a real difference to how well bulbs settle in and perform. As a general rule, plant bulbs at a depth of two to three times their own height, measured from the base of the hole to the soil surface. A few practical points to keep in mind when planting: Always plant with the pointed end facing upwards, since this is where the shoot will emerge in spring. Add grit to the base of the hole if your soil is heavy clay to help with drainage. Space bulbs roughly two to three bulb-widths apart so they have room to spread and grow. Water well after planting, even in autumn, to help settle the soil around the bulbs and remove air pockets. For tulip bulbs and daffodil bulbs, a simple bulb planter can save time when planting larger numbers across a bed or border, especially in heavier soil. Planting Spring Bulbs in Pots and Containers Pots are a good option if your garden lacks open soil, or if you simply want colour near a doorway or patio. Choose a container with drainage holes, and use a compost mix suited to bulbs rather than standard multi-purpose compost, since it drains more freely and reduces the risk of rot. Layering bulbs in a single pot, sometimes called bulb lasagne planting, lets you get several weeks of flowering from one container instead of a single short burst. Place the latest-flowering bulbs, such as tulips, at the bottom, with early bloomers like crocus near the top. Water the pot well after planting, then keep it somewhere sheltered until the first shoots appear above the compost. Our indoor bulbs range is worth a look if you want flowers indoors over the darker months, since these are prepared to flower earlier than bulbs grown outdoors. Naturalising Bulbs in Lawns and Borders Naturalising means planting bulbs so they spread and multiply on their own over several years, giving a relaxed, informal look rather than neat rows or blocks of colour. Daffodils, crocus and alliums are all well suited to this approach in a UK garden. A simple method is to scatter the bulbs by hand across the area and plant them roughly where they land, rather than lining them up. This gives a more natural spread and avoids the look of a planted grid. It works particularly well in grass, under deciduous trees, or along the edges of a border where a more relaxed look suits the space. Once established, naturalised bulbs generally need little attention beyond leaving the foliage to die back naturally after flowering, since this feeds the bulb ready for the following year. Mowing over daffodil or crocus foliage too soon is one of the most common reasons a naturalised area thins out after a year or two, so it is worth leaving the grass uncut for around six weeks after flowering finishes. Common Mistakes That Delay or Ruin Spring Bulb Displays A few habits can quietly reduce how well spring bulbs perform, even when the bulbs themselves are healthy: Planting too late in the season, once the ground has turned cold and hard to dig. Skipping drainage in heavy soil, which can cause bulbs to rot over a wet winter. Planting too shallow, which leaves bulbs more exposed to frost damage. Cutting back foliage too soon after flowering, before the bulb has stored enough energy for next year's display. Avoiding these mistakes is usually more useful than trying to get every detail exactly right, since bulbs are naturally forgiving plants when given reasonable growing conditions. Ready to Plant Your Spring Bulbs? Autumn is the window that decides how good your spring display will be, so it is worth getting bulbs into the ground while the soil is still workable. Visit Carbeth Plants to browse the full range of plants and bulbs available this season, or contact us if you would like advice on planning your spring display.  Browse the spring bulb collection or the wider flower bulb range to get started.   Frequently Asked Questions How late can I plant spring bulbs in the UK?  Bulbs can still go in as late as December if the ground has not frozen solid. Flowering the following spring may be slightly delayed compared with bulbs planted in autumn, but most varieties, particularly tulips, will still perform reasonably well once conditions allow planting to go ahead. What is the best month to plant spring bulbs in the UK? October is generally the best month for most spring bulbs, sitting between the early daffodil window and the later tulip window. Planting in October gives roots enough time to establish before the coldest part of winter arrives, without the soil being too warm. Can I leave bulbs in the ground all year in the UK? Yes, many spring bulbs can stay in the ground year-round without being lifted between seasons. The main risk is waterlogged soil over summer, which can cause bulbs to rot, so good drainage generally matters more here than getting the exact timing right. Do spring bulbs come back every year in the UK? Many spring bulbs, particularly daffodils and crocus, will flower again year after year if left undisturbed in well-drained soil, since they multiply naturally over time. Tulips are less reliable long-term and often flower best in their first spring after planting, before gradually declining. Should I soak spring bulbs before planting? Soaking is not usually necessary for firm, healthy bulbs bought straight from the packet or garden centre. It is more common practice for dried tubers such as dahlias, so for spring bulbs, planting directly into well-prepared, moist soil is generally the better and simpler approach. How deep should spring bulbs be planted? As a general rule, plant bulbs at roughly two to three times their own height, measured from the base of the hole to the soil surface. Larger bulbs like daffodils need a noticeably deeper hole than smaller ones such as crocus, snowdrops or muscari. What is the difference between a bulb and a corm? A true bulb, such as a daffodil or tulip, stores a complete embryonic flower inside layered scales. A corm, such as crocus, is a solid stem base without layers, replacing itself each year. Both are planted and cared for in a similar way. Can spring bulbs be planted in pots instead of the ground? Yes, pots work well for spring bulbs, provided the container has good drainage holes and uses a free-draining compost mix rather than standard compost. This option also suits smaller gardens, patios, balconies, or homes with little open soil available for planting bulbs.

How to Care for a Pot Grown Christmas Tree A pot grown Christmas tree brings a living centrepiece into your home each December. But keeping it healthy takes more than finding a spot by the window. Many potted trees struggle indoors because of dry heat, inconsistent watering, or being kept inside for too long. Here, we'll walk through what a tree in a pot needs from the moment it arrives, through the festive weeks, and once the decorations come down. You will find practical steps for choosing a healthy tree, positioning it indoors, watering and feeding it correctly, and deciding whether to move it back outside or plant it in the garden once Christmas is over. With the right care, a potted Christmas tree can be reused for several years rather than thrown away right after Christmas. Whether this is your first pot grown tree or you have kept one before, small adjustments to how it is watered and where it stands can make a noticeable difference to how well it copes indoors. Key Takeaways Pick a tree with a healthy root system and a pot size suited to your space Keep the tree away from radiators and other direct heat sources Check the soil regularly and water only when it feels dry Limit how long the tree stays indoors to reduce stress on its roots Let the tree adjust gradually before moving it back outside Plant it in the garden if you want it to grow again for next Christmas Choosing the Right Pot Grown Christmas Tree A pot grown tree needs more thought at the point of sale than a cut tree. That's because its roots have to survive the whole festive period and beyond. A few checks before you buy make a real difference to how well it settles in. What to Check Before You Buy The tree sits in a pot with visible roots, not a rootball wrapped in netting. Needles are firm and green, without any dry patches or excess shedding when touched. The tree looks like it has spent most of its time outdoors rather than in a heated shop. The pot size suits your space now, with a little room to grow before it needs a larger container. Common Pot Grown Varieties Norway spruce and Nordmann fir are the types of Christmas trees most commonly sold as pot grown in the UK. Carbeth Plants stocks several other pot grown varieties, including: Blue Spruce Noble Fir Fraser Fir Serbian Spruce Each can be kept in a container for a few years before it needs planting out or a larger pot. So, choosing between them often comes down to needle drop and shape preference rather than how they are grown. How to Care for a Pot Grown Christmas Tree Indoors Getting a tree indoors without shocking it takes a gradual approach, along with the right spot once it is in the house. Acclimatising the Tree Before It Comes Inside Move the tree from the garden or driveway into an unheated porch, garage, or hallway first. Leave it there for a day or two before it faces central heating. Positioning the Tree Indoors Keep it away from radiators, fireplaces, and other heat sources, since warm, dry air causes early needle drop. Choose a spot near a window with natural light, but out of strong direct sun. Stand the pot on a saucer or tray to protect flooring and make it easier to check the soil. Position the tree where a fully watered pot cannot easily be knocked, especially around children or pets. Watering a Potted Christmas Tree During Winter A pot grown Christmas tree still needs regular water indoors, even though it is not actively growing at this time of year. How to Check If It Needs Water Push a finger a couple of centimetres into the soil Water only when it feels dry that far down, rather than on a fixed schedule Repeat this check every two to three days in a centrally heated room, adjusting for how quickly the soil dries Avoiding Overwatering Overwatering is just as damaging as letting the tree dry out. Make sure the pot has proper drainage, and avoid leaving it sitting in a full saucer of water between checks. Feeding a Pot Grown Christmas Tree Feeding is not usually necessary while the tree is indoors for a short period over Christmas, since it is not in active growth at this stage. Hold off on feeding immediately after moving the tree, since a stressed root system benefits more from settling in first. If the tree stays potted for several months or through the following spring, a general liquid feed formulated for container plants, used according to the product instructions, can support new growth once temperatures rise. Once the tree is back outside and growing normally, an occasional feed through spring and summer supports steady growth for the following year. How Long to Keep Your Tree Indoors Most pot grown Christmas trees cope well indoors for around ten to twelve days. Beyond this, warm indoor air starts to take a toll. Signs it has been inside too long include: Needles turning brittle or dropping more than usual Branches feeling noticeably lighter or less springy than when the tree arrived Little to no improvement after adjusting watering Trees brought in earlier in December, or left up well into January, tend to show more needle loss than those given a shorter stretch indoors. Moving Your Christmas Tree Back Outside After Christmas Once the festive period ends, the tree needs the same gradual approach in reverse. Here's how you can reacclimatise the tree: Choose a sheltered spot, such as a porch or against a wall, for the first few days. Let it adjust to lower temperatures before facing open exposure. Avoid moving it straight into frost or strong wind after weeks in a warm room, since the sudden shift can shock the roots and foliage. Once it has settled outside for a week or so, move it to its usual position in the garden or on a patio. Planting a Pot Grown Christmas Tree in the Garden If you would like your tree to keep growing rather than staying in a container, planting it out is an option once the ground is workable and not frozen. Steps for planting the tree outdoors: Choose a spot with enough space for the tree's eventual size, since even container-grown types can reach a considerable height over several years Dig a hole slightly wider than the pot Loosen the roots gently before placing the tree in Backfill with the removed soil, firming it in as you go Water well after planting to help the roots settle into their new surroundings Caring for Your Tree Through the Year A pot grown Christmas tree kept outdoors for most of the year needs a little ongoing attention to stay healthy for next Christmas. Water during dry spells, even though the tree needs less attention than in winter Check every year or two to see if it has outgrown its container Move it into a slightly larger pot before the roots become cramped, which keeps growth steady and makes it easier to bring indoors again Trim any damaged or crossing branches in spring to keep the shape tidy Keep Your Tree Thriving Year After Year Caring for a pot grown Christmas tree comes down to a few consistent habits: checking the soil before watering, keeping it away from heat sources, and giving it time to adjust whenever it moves between indoors and outdoors. Followed closely, these steps can keep the same tree going for several festive seasons. Browse our pot grown Christmas trees to find one ready for its first Christmas in your home. Take a look at our full collection if you are sorting out any other plants or gifts for the season. Get in touch if you have questions about choosing or caring for your precious plant. Frequently Asked Questions How do I care for a pot grown Christmas tree indoors? Keep it away from radiators and direct heat, check the soil every few days, and water only when it feels dry. Stand the pot on a saucer to catch drips, and limit the indoor stay to around ten to twelve days for the best results. What are the best fertilisers for pot grown Christmas trees? A general liquid feed made for container plants works well, but only once the tree is settled and back outside. Avoid feeding immediately after moving it indoors or straight after replanting, since the roots need time to settle before they can make use of added nutrients. Which watering schedule is ideal for potted Christmas trees during winter? There is no fixed schedule to follow. Check the soil every two to three days and water when it feels dry a couple of centimetres down, adjusting for how warm the room is and how quickly the pot drains between waterings, especially in centrally heated homes. What temperature should I keep a pot grown Christmas tree in my home? A cool room away from radiators and fires suits it best. Consistently warm, dry air causes more problems than a slightly cooler spot near a window, so a hallway, porch, or unheated room often works better for the tree than a warm living room over Christmas. Can I plant my pot grown Christmas tree in the garden after Christmas? Yes, once the ground is not frozen and workable. Let the tree acclimatise outdoors for a week or so first, then choose a spot with room for future growth and water it well after planting to help the roots settle into their new surroundings. How long does a pot grown Christmas tree last indoors? Around ten to twelve days is typical before warm indoor air starts affecting the needles. Keeping the visit short and the room on the cooler side helps the tree recover more quickly once it moves back outside for the rest of the year.

The best time to plant allium bulbs depends on the season and growing conditions. Learn when to plant them in the UK, plus tips on depth, spacing and care.

Wondering what to plant in August UK gardens? Get practical tips on flowers, veg, herbs and spring bulbs to sow and grow this month.

As a start to this long adventure of learning and helping you to learn more about our products, and gardening in general in the UK, we are going to start by talking about our favourite fruit trees. In this article we will be looking at one of the most colourful trees, namely the lemon tree, these are a great choice for decorating all types of well-lit interiors or frost-protected areas. These trees can provide you with the joy that their fruits give you. Citrus Lemon Of Asian origin, the lemon tree (Citrus Limon) is a perennial fruit tree of the Rutaceae family. Its large, oval, bright green leaves are, like its flowers, very aromatic, with a characteristic thorn at the base. There are many varieties of the lemon tree and the different species differ in the shape and colour of their fruit, the lemons, and in the shape, acidity and ripening periods of the fruit. This fruit tree prefers a well-drained, fertile and humus-rich soil, in a sun-facing area and protected from the wind. The lemon tree is a medium-sized tree of the citrus genus, belonging to the Rutaceae family, which can live up to 70 years. It has a woody, yellowish, highly branched trunk and its large, oval, bright green leaves are very aromatic and have a characteristic thorn at the base. Its flowers, the orange blossom, also give off a great aroma. Its fruit, the lemon, is yellow or green in colour and has a thick rind that hides a white, spongy and tasteless layer, under which the pulp is found. The lemons sprout on one-year-old branches and on those with terminal buds. As for the harvesting, it must be done in a staggered way, when they are ripe, something that happens during almost the whole year. There are many varieties of lemon tree. Their different species are differentiated by the shape and colour of their fruits, the lemons, and by their shape, acidity and ripening periods. Basic care of the lemon tree Lemon trees require well-drained, fertile, humus-rich soil, which should be oriented towards the sun and protected from the wind. Watering and flowering They should be watered abundantly, especially when the fruits start to come out and during the flowering period. In the hot season it is important to water it daily, while in winter it can be watered for about 3 days. Whenever possible, water and fertiliser should be used. It would also be a good idea not to have other vegetation under the canopy, as it could consume nutrients from the roots. Fertiliser Fertiliser should be rich in macro-nutrients such as nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, and in micro-nutrients such as iodine, iron and vitamin A. It should be applied in spring and summer. It should be applied in spring and summer and, in order to do so, the height of the tree and the production of lemons should be taken into account, as the higher the production and the larger the size, the greater the nutrient supply should be. Pruning Pruning should be done annually during the period of vegetative inactivity, but especially in the first years of the lemon tree we should not overdo it. Above all, excess and dry branches should be removed to clear the way for the light to reach the tree. During this period, dead branches and other weaker branches should be removed, so that the rest of the tree has more strength. The tree is multiplied by grafting. Uses of the lemon tree As well as being present in many recipes of the Mediterranean gastronomy, the lemon also has other uses, for example: Food: it is commonly found in drinks, sauces or we can even see it enhancing the flavour of all kinds of recipes. Ornamental tree: there is no doubt, the lemon bush is ideal as decoration as long as the climate is not too cold. Medicinal plant: there are some studies that attribute certain medicinal properties to the lemon, including stress relief. Perfumery: its essential oils are commonly used in the elaboration of perfumes. Wood: this type of wood is hard and has a smooth bark, which is why it is highly appreciated in all types of woodwork. Frequently asked questions about the lemon tree We end this article with a series of frequently asked questions about this citrus tree: How long does it take to grow a lemon plant?The lemon tree will take between 3 and 6 years to bear fruit, so it is certainly a challenge of patience. If you want to accelerate the growth, you can buy a small tree to shorten the time. When do lemons flower?It depends largely on the climate and the variety of lemon tree, but it is usual for them to flower twice a year: 1) The first time between March and July. 2) The second time between August and September. How long does a lemon tree live?The maximum is usually around 70 years, but much depends on the conditions in which it grows. What is the lemon blossom called?The flower of the lemon tree is the orange blossom, they are white and their name comes from Arabic. It is the common name for the flowers of the orange and lemon tree. It is a common ingredient in herbal teas.

In this next post we will give our humble opinion, providing information about our irrigation techniques in Carbeth Plants. When should plants be watered One of the main mistakes we make when watering plants is to treat them all the same. Never forget that each plant has its own needs and some need moderate watering while others need abundant watering. Having said that, as soon as you buy a plant, check on the Internet or at the nursery where you bought it, what care it needs. Once you know what its needs are (abundant, moderate or scarce watering), you will be able to understand it and give it what it needs. How to know when to water plants We could say -in a very summarised way- that there are three types of plants in relation to watering: those that need to be watered when the substrate is completely dry, those that need the substrate to be always wet and cacti and succulents that need long periods with dry soil. Identify which of these three types of plant is yours and water accordingly. To do this, always look at the substrate and stick a toothpick, pencil or your own finger into the soil to see if the soil is moist or dry. If there is soil sticking to the stick or pencil when you pull it out, it is still wet. In case you are not sure whether the soil is wet or not, my advice is to wait a few days, it is better to under-water than over-water! What is the right watering frequency The plant itself will tell you how often you should water it. Imagine you have a plant that needs to have a moist substrate and you water it every Sunday. In this case there could be three situations: Sunday arrives and the soil is dry. This means that you will have to water your plant twice a week instead of once a week. Sunday arrives and the soil is very wet. This means that you either have to water it less or you have to water it every 10 days. Come Sunday and the soil is slightly damp. This means that you have found the perfect days to water your plant. Adapt your watering to the temperature We always insist that the best thing for our plants is to observe them to understand their needs. Don't get used to watering them one day a week - the example above was just that, an example - because depending on the time of year their water needs will change. In the summer the temperatures are higher and you will need to water your plants more frequently to keep them hydrated and cool. In winter the temperatures drop, the substrate stays wetter for longer and the plants go into vegetative rest, so we will reduce watering (always progressively) and even stop watering them almost completely in some species. How much water should I add? This depends on many factors such as the size of the pot, the substrate, the type of plant (Ficus, Calatea, Succulent, Cactus...) or the temperature/time of the year. However, in order to have an orientation that can serve as a guide, it is very useful to look at the drainage hole. In other words, water your plant until water comes out of the hole in the pot. When you see that water starts to come out, it means that it has reached the roots and that the amount of water is adequate and sufficient. When you pour the water in, do it a little at a time To avoid saturating the soil and overdoing it with water, it is advisable to pour the water into the pot a little at a time and see how it is absorbed by the soil and stop when you see that the water begins to run out of the drainage holes. It is possible that when watering several plants you will notice that some absorb the water very quickly, while others take a few seconds to "swallow" it. Don't worry about this, it is due to the amount and type of soil in each pot. However, caked substrates, which usually have very compact soil, take a long time to absorb the water and you have to make sure that the water drains through the hole in the pot because sometimes, because the soil is so caked, the water cannot penetrate to the roots and the plant does not hydrate. Why do plants need to be allowed to drain Not allowing the plant to drain is one of the biggest mistakes you can make when it comes to watering. What do I mean by draining? Always, always - I say it again just in case - always, always let the remaining water from watering drain out of the drainage hole before putting the plant back in its potting cover. Likewise, don't leave your plants with the saucer full of water as many species are prone to root rot and having stagnant water so close to them will lead to rotting or fungal problems. If you are reading this and have just realised that your pot does not have a drainage hole... Please make one now! Or change the pot, because if you overwater it, it is very easy for your plant to rot. What is the best time of day to water As the popular saying goes: Every little master has his own way of doing things. In our case, We water our plants in the following way: in summer at dusk because it is very hot.  This way I make sure that they are well hydrated and cool during the hottest nights. In winter We usually water them at midday. Why? Because this is the time when there is the most light and any excess water or humidity evaporates more easily. The important thing is to avoid watering them at the coldest times of the day so as not to generate excessive humidity. What irrigation methods are there and when should i use them We use three watering methods for watering my plants: traditional watering, immersion watering and spraying. TRADITIONAL WATERING We use it for plants that need moderate or little watering. I simply pour water over the substrate with a watering can until it comes out of the drainage hole. WATERING BY IMMERSION We reserve it for plants that require abundant watering and that are sensitive to root rot. Why? Because this way We make sure that the plant absorbs the humidity it needs and that We don't overdo it with the amount of water. To water plants by immersion, what We do is put the plant in a container of water. After about five minutes We remove it, let it drain and put it back in the pot cover. WATERING WITH A SPRAYER Spray watering - a small spray bottle - is used for plants that require a lot of moisture or very little water, such as succulents. For plants that require a lot of humidity (Marantas and Calateas) what We do is to water by immersion and then spray the leaves and the top layer of the substrate to make sure that it is always moist. For cacti and succulents that require a small amount of water, what We also do is to water them with a spray bottle without wetting the aerial part of the plant, We just spray water on the substrate. What can I do if I have watered too much? If you touch the soil and notice that it is too wet, take the plant out of the pot and wrap it in kitchen paper until you remove as much water as possible. If you do this and the substrate is still wet, place the plant - without putting it in the pot - on the terrace or in an airy place so that the earth ball dries out as soon as possible. Do I need to use bottled water for watering? In principle no, although there are plants with acidic soils such as Azaleas that do not like lime water. If the water in your city is very hard and has limescale, you can fill a bottle with water and leave it to stand for 24 hours. This will remove most of the limescale. Should I water with cold water? Watch out for this! Whenever you water your plants, always try to do so with water that is at room temperature. If you use water that is too cold or too hot, you can shock the plants and cause root damage. How do I know if a plant is over-watered? The most common symptom is that the leaves of the plant start to yellow and eventually fall off. How do I know if a plant needs watered? Because the stems and leaves will look shriveled or wilted. As soon as you water the plant and it is hydrated again, these symptoms will disappear. However, when the plant is over-watered, the consequences of dehydration do not disappear. And that's all for today's post!

Indoor plants do not need the same care in summer as in winter. It must be taken into account that with the arrival of cold weather, temperatures drop, the hours of daylight decrease and an element comes into play that complicates everything a little and that is called heating. What care do plants need in winter? With the cold weather we must change some of our care habits: Watering: reduce the frequency, quantity and timing of watering. Humidity: provide more humidity. Location: light and away from heating. Fertilisation: do not fertilise the plants until spring. Pruning: this is the time to clean damaged leaves. Leaves: it is important to keep them clean. What happens to plants when the cold weather arrives. Before explaining in more detail the care of indoor plants in winter, We think it is also important to explain what happens to plants when the cold weather arrives. Plants feed on light and use all the energy provided by the sun to flower, put out new leaves and continue to develop. We must not forget another fundamental factor in the development of a plant: temperature. Each plant has its own needs, but it is essential for them to have warm temperatures that allow them to continue growing. With the arrival of winter and due to the drop in temperatures, plants enter a period of rest or vegetative rest. As the temperature conditions are not optimal for their development, plants "reserve" all the energy provided by the sun during the winter in order to grow more vigorously in spring, when warmer temperatures arrive. If this is so, why do some plants flower in autumn? It is true that there are plants such as flower in autumn. This is due to because these particular plants tolerate lower temperatures for growth and development. However, when temperatures are lower than these plants need to thrive, they will also go into dormancy. Do all plants go into dormancy? It depends on the climate, but whenever there is frost or the temperatures are really cold, yes, the plants will go into dormancy. Moreover, this vegetative rest is essential for them because during these months they accumulate energy and "train" themselves to grow with greater vitality and strength with the arrival of spring. It is advisable for plants to enjoy at least two months of vegetative rest. In cities with constant warm temperatures, plants do not have this rest and although they survive without it, they become weaker and more prone to attack by pests and fungi. Watering in winter There are three things to bear in mind when it comes to watering your plants in winter: Frequency of watering: now that the temperatures are lower, the humidity in the soil lasts longer, so it is important to space out the watering. If in summer we watered twice a week, now watering once a week will be enough. How do we know if we are watering too much or too little? Always pay close attention to the substrate. When it is time to water your plant, first look at the soil and check whether it is moist or not. But don't just look at the surface, dip your finger into the substrate and assess how wet it is. If it is still wet, don't water and wait a few days. This is important because overwatering can cause fungus problems! Amount of water when watering: as plants enter a period of rest in winter and their aerial activity (leaves and stems) comes to a standstill, they need less water to survive. For this reason, we will also have to adjust the amount of water we give them and gradually reduce it. Time of day to water: In summer, I like to water in the evening because it is so hot that the plants appreciate being cool and hydrated. However, this rule does not apply in winter. Why not? Well, because at night the temperatures drop, the heaters are turned off and having the plant freshly watered at the coldest time of the day is not suitable for it. In winter it is better to water during the day, for example at midday: there is light, there is sunshine and any excessive humidity caused by watering will leave the plant sooner. Ambient Humidity Forgetting about humidity during the winter is a very common mistake. We think that because it is cold, plants are well hydrated and do not need humidity. How can you know if your plants need humidity? Look at the tips of the leaves, are they dry or brown? If your answer is yes, it means that your plants need humidity. But this is not the case. It is rather the opposite. In winter we have the heaters or radiators on and these provoke an environmental dryness that our plants are going to notice and suffer. Providing them with humidity is relatively simple and you can do it in two ways: spraying their leaves from time to time or using a humidifier. Location of the Plants Another aspect to take into account during the winter is the location. Mainly for two reasons: Lighting: in winter, the hours of light and its intensity decrease, so it is important to find a place in the house near light points so that they receive all the sun they need. Heating: as far as possible, it would be a good idea to place your plants away from radiators, as direct heat can be harmful to them. In addition, sudden changes in temperature (from room temperature to heating) are not beneficial. Pruning/ Cleaning We have called it pruning because We didn't know how to define this point, but more than pruning, We mean cleaning the plant. That is to say, take advantage of the arrival of winter to cut those dry or yellow leaves that you think are going to dry out soon. We always recommend doing this so that the plant does not "waste" energy on leaves that will inevitably be lost and have no continuity. Leaves During autumn and winter there are fewer hours of light and therefore the plant receives less energy or food. Our job here is to make it as easy as possible for them to take in as much light or energy as possible. We have already mentioned that in winter plants should be placed in a place where they receive more light. But as you are well aware, plants capture light through their leaves, so it is essential to keep them clean so that they can feed properly. Did you know that dust or dirt accumulated on the leaves can complicate photosynthesis? The truth is that the leaves would have to be very dirty to prevent them from absorbing the sun's energy, but to avoid unnecessary risks, it is advisable to keep the leaves clean during the winter. You can wipe them with a cloth dipped in water and pass it over each one. This way, they will be in perfect condition to make the most of the hours of light available during the winter. We hope these tips will help you take care of your houseplants during the winter! Feel free to share with me any tips or questions! We'll read you in the comments!